Let’s talk about meatloaf. I can hear some of you groaning
already, remembering your mum or your grandmother’s ketchup-glazed, and yet
still dry, loaf of ground meat.
So what is it about meatloaf? What has changed it from a
1950s Americana staple meal, to the rather dubious notoriety as the birthday
choice for Mitt Romney’s “Blue-Collar
Birthday Meal”? Apparently he eats
his own “mini meatloaf cakes” with cooked carrots and mashed potatoes every
year for his birthday celebration. (Now that, ladies and gentlemen, is a man of
mystery and adventure. Ann must be a very happy woman.)
My most memorable meatloaf reference belongs to Ren and
Stimpy, in perhaps the most bizarre cartoon scene ever aired on television,
where Stimpy wanders into his own psychedelic bellybutton, meeting Jerry, The Bellybutton
Elf, who is smoking a stogie and wearing a miniskirt of the finest lint. Stimpy
is then enslaved by his Bellybutton Elf, and mistakenly serves him LintLoaf (at
7:35 here). Jerry HATES
LintLoaf, and Stimpy must escape. Very dramatic, and certainly scarred my
psyche permanently.
With the chill in the air, I’ve been thinking about comfort
food, and I wanted to try something new. I had it in my mind that my dad really
likes meatloaf, and so I thought about looking through my grandmother’s recipe
book to learn how to make hers. But let’s be real. Meatloaf, prior to 1980, was
made with about 4 different ground meats. Her recipe had veal, pork, beef and
probably about a pound of lard. So I wasn’t about to do that, although I did
want a luxe version.
I decided to use a pound of ground veal, and combine a few
recipes I found. One had a red
wine glaze, which sounded great, but then I came across another
with blue cheese and caramelized onions, which also sounded amazing. And don’t
forget, I make that blue
cheese sauce with shallots and cream, which I thought could be a great
stand-in for gravy in this recipe. And so, an idea was born.
Start by caramelizing your onion. This takes some time, so
just chill and start with this. Do not rush your onion slices. Let them go
slowly. Easy on the heat. Lots of butter. Little bit of salt. (Not sugar.
You’re better than that. You don’t put cream in your risotto, and you don’t put
sugar in your caramelized onions. You aren’t that kind of girl. Or guy.)
Once they are nice and golden, you can turn up the heat a
little, and pour in a hefty splash of red wine. Reduce until it’s basically
onion syrup. Set aside.
Okay, now we’re going to do the raw meat portion. In a bowl,
add your meat, 1 cup of breadcrumbs, your onion mix, one egg slightly beaten, a
¼ cup of crumbled blue cheese and spices. You’ll notice in the recipe above
they only add salt and pepper, but that’s as basic as a pumpkin spice latte,
and the idea here is an upscale meatloaf, not one that Mitt Romney is going to
glaze with ketchup and eat with boiled carrots, before he spends 7.9 minutes in
missionary position for his birthday nookie. (Sorry, that got racy, but I
couldn’t resist.)
For spices, I used a palmful of herbes de Provence, but use
your favourites. Mix with your hands (awful, I know) and form into a greased
loaf pan. Bake at 350° for about an hour. Serve with blue cheese gravy, boiled
carrots and mashed potatoes (mine are rosemary garlic, just for a touch of
excitement).
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